LVT/LVP: A DIY Guide

I can’t help but be reminded of an exchange from the 1967 ‘Casino Royale’ spoof with a title like this:

‘Sir James: Junior Cypher Cub, in my day, weren't you, Ransome?

Ransome: Yes sir. J-C-C, Class G, S-I-C 2-S-C-C-T,CIA, Washington, DC.’

But jokes aside, last time we talked about LVT/LVP (Luxury Vinyl Tile / Luxury Vinyl Plank): what they are, what they do, and why they’re an excellent option to keep in mind when dealing with current or future foundation-related repairs.

Today, we’re diving into one of their biggest advantages: DIY-friendliness — and we’ll walk you through a practical, step-by-step installation guide along the way.

Now, most click-lock LVP installs as a floating floor, so no fancy tools, glue or special training require. Just score, click, tap and done. Even the glue-down versions, while more technical, still fall within the reach of DIY. Best part of it all is that, given that the material is modular, a single plank can be replaced if it ever gets damaged; so no need to rip out an entire section of flooring. 

Other advantages of LVT/LVP flooring are:

• Water Resistance/Fully Waterproof, depending on the product.

• Highly durable; resistant to scratches, dents and wear.

• Low maintenance.

• Budget friendly.

• Comportable and quiet underfoot.

• Compatible with many existing subfloors, including concrete.

That said, this post is about how to install LVT/LVP — not selling you on it — so let’s get into the DIY.

For LVT/LVP there are two main installation types: click-lock (floating) and glue-down. We will be covering both today.

After gathering your tools and materials you gotta do some prep work:

- Acclimate the flooring. Unbox and lay the planks flat in the room for 48 hours to acclimate to temperature/humidity (Verify manufacturer recommendations as they may vary from one to another).

- Remove baseboards/trim and thresholds. Label if you plan to reinstall.

- Inspect & repair the subfloor. Clean, dry, and level the surface. Remove nails, glue, debris. Patch low spots and sand high spots. Manufacturer commonly requires flatness around ≤3/16" over 10 ft..

- Check moisture. For concrete, perform a moisture test or use a moisture meter. If moisture is above product limits, you’ll need a moisture mitigation system or choose a product rated for higher moisture.

- Plan your layout. Decide direction (planks usually run parallel to longest wall or toward main light source). Dry-lay a few rows to see how cuts will fall—aim to avoid very narrow starter or end strips.

Click-Lock (Floating) Method Installation:

1. Install underlayment (if required). Lay seams butted, tape if directed.

2. Establish a straight starter line. Snap a chalk line parallel to the starting wall leaving an expansion gap (typically 1/4" to 1/2"). Use spacers.

3. First row. Start with the longest plank against the wall with groove side facing the wall. Use the cut piece from the last plank of a row as the starter of the next row (stagger joints).

4. Join planks. Angle the tongue into the groove and drop or click into place. Use tapping block and rubber mallet gently for tight seams—never hit the locking edge directly with a metal hammer.

5. Stagger seams. Stagger end joints at least 6–8". This creates a stable, natural look.

6. Continue across the room. Use pull bar for tight fits at the far wall. Maintain expansion gap.

7. Finish edges. Reinstall baseboards or shoe molding. Cut door jambs with a jamb saw if needed.

8. Clean up. Vacuum and wipe.

Glue-Down Method Installation:

1. Prepare subfloor meticulously (clean and level). Moisture limits and flatness are stricter.

2. Lay out starter line as above.

3. Apply adhesive. Use the adhesive and trowel notch size specified by the manufacturer. Only trowel as much adhesive as you can install within its open working time.

4. Place planks into adhesive. Press firmly and use a seam roller if required. Avoid walking on newly laid areas until adhesive sets.

5. Roll the floor. When installation is complete and the adhesive has set per instructions, roll the floor with a 100-lb roller to ensure full contact and remove air pockets.

6. Allow cure time before heavy traffic or moving furniture.

Other important tips to take into account:- Always follow manufacturer specs for acclimation, expansion gap, subfloor flatness, moisture limits, and adhesive recommendations.

- Expansion gaps matter. If you eliminate them, the floor can buckle.

- Avoid installing over uneven subfloors. LVT can telegraph imperfections. Fix the floor first.

- Don’t use a steam mop. Steam can damage vinyl adhesives and plank cores. Use recommended cleaners only.

- Match batches. Whenever possible use planks from the same lot number to avoid color/print variation.

• Install transitions at doorways and uneven surfaces.

- Never nail trim through the flooring.

• Use floor protectors under heavy furniture.

Now, for some trouble-shooting:

Gapping between planks: Check humidity/temperature as gaps can appear in dry months. Maintain indoor humidity 35–55%.

Buckling / Crowning: Often caused by missing expansion gaps or substrate movement.

Peaks / hollow spots when working with glue-down method may require re-adhering affected planks.

Remember that installing LVT/LVP is one of the most DIY-friendly flooring upgrades you can tackle. Not to mention that, as discussed in our previous post, it’s also one of the smartest flooring choices for homes dealing with, or trying to prevent, foundation issues.

So take your time to prep properly, follow the instructions, and you’ll end up with great-looking, long-lasting results.Happy remodeling!